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Red Eyes (Agalychnis callidryas) are relatively easy to breed, but caring for the eggs and tadpoles can be quite challenging and requires some preparation and dedicated resources. This article is intended to illustrate one method that has proven to work on many occasions.
The breeding season for Red-Eyed Leaf Frogs is during the rainy season as it is for most other frogs. This is a period in which there are heavy rains and barometric pressure drops. There are lots of water pools created where the tadpoles will live. Unlike some tree frogs, Red Eyes don't require a barometric pressure drop so you can simulate the rainy season easily using a misting system of some sort. Using this method it is possible to breed Red Eyes at any time of the year.
The frogs should be cooled off (or cycled down) for at least 2 months between breeding. A temperature drop is not necessary, but don't mist the frogs. Make sure they always have a fresh supply of water.
A separate rain chamber is ideal for breeding Red Eyes. This
one pictured is 4 feet high by 2 feet wide by 2 feet deep and
is constructed of laminated wood with a glass door. There are
screens on top for ventilation. A hole is drilled in the bottom
for 1/2 inch CPVC drain tube that extends about 1.5 to 2 inches
high to create a pool. The tube drains through a filter into a
bucket. A Rain
Maker misting pump and spray heads are used to simulate the
rain. Various pieces of PVC and CPVC tubing are used to create
climbing areas. Also a Pothos or Philodendron plant is suspended
to create egg laying sites, though the frogs will sometimes lay
directly on the walls. There should be many islands for the frogs
to climb out of the water and to hold feeder insects.
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The male will amplex with the female prior to egg laying. If
the female is not ready she will try to dislodge the male. Sometimes
they will remain in amplexus for days. When she is ready to lay,
the female (with male in amplexus) will descend to the water and
take water into her vent. Then she will climb up to a leaf or
side of the tank and lay a mass of eggs (approximately 20-50).
As the eggs come out the male fertilizes them. Shortly after being
laid, the egg gel expands around the eggs. This will be repeated
3 to 4 times with a typical total of 100-150 eggs being laid.
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It is possible to leave the egg masses where they are laid and let the tadpoles hatch out there. However, it is usually safer for the eggs to remove them and place them into a special egg hatching container. This keeps the eggs safe from frogs and rain. If possible, it is preferable to remove the leaf that the eggs are on. If not, then use a rubber spatula and carefully detach the egg mass. Try not to disrupt the mass and keep the eggs near the top of the mass.
A small sweater box or similar container is ideal for 1 or
2 clutches of eggs. Put 1 to 2 inches of dechlorinated water in
the bottom with a small amount of hornwort or similar aquatic
plant. An air stone is good to use to keep the water aerated.
Cut 1 1/2 PVC lengthwise in half to create troughs and angle them
into the water as pictured below. Then place the egg masses on
the trough. In about 7 days the tadpoles will start hatching and
slide into the water. Lightly mist the eggs twice a day.
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The tadpoles will live off of the egg yolk for several days.
Keep them in the sweater box until they start growing. After a
few days lightly feed them tadpole food. Keep a close watch on
the water quality. When the tadpoles start putting on size, put
them into the aquariums. You should have several 10 to 20 gallon
tanks ready. Each tank should have 1 to 2 inches of gravel, aquatic
plants, a mechanical filter (such as a submersible Duetto), a
biological filter, and at least one air stone. Depending on the
temps in your room you might need a submersible heater. Submersible
filters and heaters are preferred as you will need a screen top
to keep the emerging froglets from escaping. Keep a few fish in
the tanks when there are no tadpoles. This will keep a good biological
filter alive and make it easier to control water quality. Remove
the fish when placing tadpoles in the tank. Place 50-75 tadpoles
into each tank depending upon the size of tank. Feed daily and
maintain water quality. With this number of tadpoles, water changes
might be needed every day or every other day. Water temperature
should be between 75-80 degrees Farenheit. Monitor the PH and
keep it between 6.8 and 7.2. After a month or so the tadpoles
will start growing back legs. Soon their front legs begin to pop
out. Keep a watch as eventually they will climb out of the water
and must be pulled out and put into a froglet rearing tank. During
this period it is a good idea to lower the water level to create
more room for froglets to climb out. Also, floating lily pads
are a good idea for the froglets to climb on.
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The newly morphed froglets will not eat for 5-7 days while they re-absorb their tail. Initially they should be fed pinhead crickets or large fruit flies (Drosophila hydei). Feed them daily and increase the size of the crickets as the frogs grow.
Special thanks to Larry Marshall of FrogMasters.com for mentoring me in the care and breeding of tropical treefrogs.
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